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I recently traveled to Xinjiang. As a Muslim who speaks decent Chinese, it was a chance to experience a blend of cultures that I’ve always been interested in learning more about.
Xinjiang is stunning. With the help of several local guides and drivers, I was able to see a good portion of the region over the course of a couple of weeks.
The scenery was breathtaking, and the food was some of the best I’ve had. But more than anything else, what stayed with me was the sense of fear that seemed to surround many Uyghur people I met.
My first candid conversation with a Uyghur tour guide only happened after I handed him my phone and put it into flight mode. Even then, he was visibly nervous and sweating as he spoke. Some of the things he told me was that the “re-education” camps were indeed a big thing in the past and that he even was sent there. They have been scaled down compared to previous years, partly because of international scrutiny according to him, but that many restrictions have remained on Islamic life.
I also noticed a clear difference between northern and southern Xinjiang. The atmosphere in the south felt much more sensitive, with a stronger security presence.
For example, in Kashgar, a local guide was helping me fill out a permit while we were sitting in a cab. He looked at my name and asked, “You have a Muslim name, right?” I replied, “Yes, I’m Muslim. What about you?” He immediately froze and didn’t answer. Only after we stepped outside the car did he tell me not to ask sensitive questions inside because there are cameras in the taxis.
The Id Kah Mosque (the biggest mosque in Xinjiang) in Kashgar felt more like a museum than a functioning mosque. Several locals told me afterwards that regular prayers have not been permitted there for some years, except for some elderly people on special occasions. I was personally denied permission to pray there, which was the first time that has ever happened to me at a mosque. I also couldn’t find a single shop selling a Quran in Kashgar, which surprised me given its history as a Muslim-majority city.
Uyghur food, dance, music, and traditional clothing remain highly visible, especially as part of tourism. Religious life, however, appeared to be much more restricted.
Of course, I was only there for a short time, so these are personal observations rather than a comprehensive assessment. If you visit Xinjiang, I’d strongly encourage to get to know some of the local people beyond the usual tourist interactions to get a more nuanced picture on life there. It helps also to speak mandarin so you can directly communicate with many of them.
TL;DR: Xinjiang is incredibly beautiful, but what struck me most was the apparent fear among many Uyghurs I spoke with and the contrast between the vibrant cultural presentation for tourists and what appeared to be significant restrictions on religious life and personal freedoms.
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